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The Costa Verde - the Rugged Hills & Coast of Asturias

Posada del Valle
Wild Asturcon ponies
Spectacular scenery
Limestone peaks frame the Cares Gorge
One of the lakes at Covadonga
Lastres
The idyllic coastline
The charming coastal resort of Llanes
Lounge at Posada del Valle
Dining room at Posada del Valle

Spain’s northern coast, the Costa Verde (‘Green Coast’) is fully deserving of its name - lush hills and pastureland tumble down to grassy cliffs which in turn frame secluded beaches of virgin sand. Behind all this rise the Picos de Europa Mountains whose jagged limestone peaks provide a striking backdrop while you walk and explore in this alluring region.

Posada del Valle, Collia

Your base for the week is the welcoming 3-star Posada del Valle, immersed in the rugged Sueve Natural Reserve on the western fringes of the Picos. The bedrooms are well-equipped and comfortable and, like the lounges and dining room, are no-smoking areas. Your host is the enthusiastic Nigel Burch, an Englishman whose knowledge of the region is unrivalled.

With his wife, Joann, Nigel has created a charming small hotel and built up a loyal Spanish clientele for the restaurant too, which uses mainly local, organic ingredients, including vegetables and a rare breed of indigenous lamb produced on the hotel’s own organic farm. We include dinner at the hotel on two nights, and make suggestions for dining out in our documentation – there is even a Michelin-starred restaurant nearby.

In February 2008, Joann and Nigel of the Posada del Valle won the 'Organic Food & Biodiversity Award' from the Spanish Ministry of the Environment, for their outstanding efforts in not only using organic produce in the hotel's restaurant, but also in growing most of that food themselves on their farm.

Inntravel is passionately committed to the principles of Responsible Tourism - click here to find out more

Walking & sightseeing

Prices include a hire car, giving you the freedom to walk and explore as the mood takes you – our particularly detailed documentation provides plenty of suggestions so that you can enjoy a very varied holiday. Some walks require a taxi transfer (which Nigel will be happy to arrange for you) or start and/or finish with a ride on the region's scenic, narrow-gauge railway (pay locally in both cases).

Fito Viewpoint (5-16km, easy-challenging): there are various options from the Fito Viewpoint in the Sueve Sierra depending on how energetic you are feeling. The easiest walk (5km) is accessed by car (10mins), the two moderate options (7km and 11km) require a taxi to the viewpoint, while the more demanding route (16km) starts and ends at the hotel, taking in Pico Pienzu (1,159 metres). Whatever you choose, be sure to take plenty of time to soak up the panorama of coast and mountains from the viewpoint. If you are lucky, you may spot wild Asturcon ponies as you walk, but if not the sweeping views more than compensate.

Pastoral Landscapes (13km, easy-to-moderate): this walk starts with a short train ride then returns to the hotel through traditional Asturian countryside, passing sleepy stone-built villages as it crosses the rolling hills.

Lakes Enol & Ercina (5km, easy or 12km, challenging): you can combine either of these walks with a visit to Covadonga – the most famous of the Picos de Europa National Park's many highlights – where the Christian Reconquest of Spain began when King Pelayo defeated the Moorish army in a battle in 718. Nowadays there is an important sanctuary at the site. Above Covadonga are two lakes, Enol and Ercina, and it is here that we suggest two walks. The shorter walk is easy, though rough underfoot, and offers spectacular mountain scenery. The longer walk rewards you with views of the central Picos from above the dramatic Cares Gorge. Covadonga is a 50-minute drive from the hotel.

Cliffs & Coast (12km, moderate): starting and ending with a train ride, this route leads along the top of rugged cliffs, revealing varied coastal scenery and idyllic sandy bays.

Cares Gorge (22km, moderate): the Cares Gorge (40mins by car) is another of the National Park's 'must-sees'. Also known as the Divine Gorge, it is surrounded by towering, craggy limestone peaks. A broad path has been carved out of the mountainside, an extraordinary feat of engineering. At first it remains high above the river, but the further you walk along the gorge, the closer you get to the water. If you walk all the way to Caín, the gorge opens up to reveal an unrivalled view of the jagged peaks at the heart of the Park. You return along the same route.

Ponga Natural Park (10km, moderate or 16km, challenging): the Ponga Natural Park (1hr by car) is one of Spain's newest protected reserves, and is fully deserving of its status. There is a real feeling of escaping the everyday world as you explore the wild mountain scenery and majestic beech woods.

A Coastal Stroll (14km, easy): an easy walk 30 minutes' drive from the hotel, which winds across meadows and along the cliffs.

Playa la Vega (14km, moderate): from the hotel you descend along good tracks through the hills of the Sierra del Fito, enjoying good views to the sandy, unspoiled beach of Playa La Vega. Relax on the sand for a while before returning to the Posada by taxi.

Pico Moru (12km, moderate-to-challenging): paths lead direct from the hotel across inland hills to Pico Moru, from whose summit you are rewarded with yet more impressive views.

The Blow Holes (9km, easy-to-moderate): if you can, time this cliff-top walk to coincide with high tide to see the blow holes at their most dramatic. You take a train to and from the walk.

For a change from walking, use your car to explore further afield. Scattered across the region are numerous pre-Romanesque churches, many of which form part of a Unesco World Heritage Site. You can see evidence of the region's even earlier history with a visit to Tito Bustillo, El Buxal or Pindal, three caves in which examples of Palaeolithic art have been discovered (please check with us that the caves will be open at the time of year you wish to visit).

Other highlights of the region are its coastal villages, in which coloured houses tumble down the cliffs towards the sea. Ribadesella, Lastres (where there is a fish auction most afternoons) and Tazones are particularly worthy of a visit. If you are interested in learning more about Asturias' cider and cheese, you may be able to arrange isits to local producers. At the very least, be sure to visit a sidrería and indulge in a bottle of cider. Holding the bottle above his head and the glass by his thigh, the waiter pours a small amount of cider for you.

Without putting it down on the table (this would allow it to settle), you down it in one go, leaving a little bit in the bottom so as to swill out the glass (the floor is covered in sawdust) before passing it to your companion. Finally, you should not miss the regional capital, Oviedo, where narrow, cobbled streets lined with brightly painted houses radiate out from the striking Gothic cathedral.

Prices & travel 2008:

£ per person based on 2 in a double rm
Walk
price*
Single
room
7 nights (2 dinners & 3 picnics): 15 March-1 November 2008
15-23 Mar
463
135
24 Mar-23 May
445
135
24 May-27 Jun
463
135
28 Jun-4 Jul
488
140
5-18 Jul
508
140
19 Jul-5 Sep
533
140
6-12 Sep
508
140
13-19 Sep
488
140
20-30 Sep
463
135
1 Oct-1 Nov
445
135
3rd+ person saving
45

Recommended destination airports: Asturias Oviedo, Bilbao & Santander
Latest flight arrival time/Earliest flight departure time:
flexible (drive to/from Asturias Oviedo is 1h, Santander 1h50 & Bilbao 3h)
*Included travel:
7 days' category A car hire (e.g. VW Polo Match 1.2a/c)
Extra nights can be booked at any hotel - please contact us for details
Start:
any day
Book your flights through us and we'll find the best route, times and price to suit you
Large room: add £6pp/n

Extra night prices:

Extra nights (£ per person per night) Double
room
Single
room
Collia 15-18 Mar; 24 Mar-30 Jun; 16 Sep-1 Nov 40 58
  19-23 Mar; 1 Jul-15 Sep 48 66

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