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Brittany
Surrounded
by the Atlantic on three sides, France's north-western peninsular, Brittany,
is a region of wild, rugged landscapes. During centuries of relative isolation,
a strong regional identity formed, which survives to this day.
Celtic roots
Brittany has strong Celtic roots. Celts from central Europe first settled
there in the 6th century BC, naming it Armor, 'land of the sea'. In the
5th and 6th centuries, a second influx of Celts - the Dumnonii tribe from
Devon and the Cornovii from Cornwall - settled in Armor, fleeing the invading
Angles and Saxons. They renamed the region Small Britain, after their
homeland, Great Britain. Their impact was great - they brought with them
the Celtic language (that spoken in Armor had been heavily influenced
by Latin under the Romans) and Christianity. In the 9th century Brittany
became an independent French duchy and later a kingdom, sparking a series
of often bloody power struggles. During the 15th century, ties between
France and Brittany became stronger (France was keen to incorporate Brittany
so as to block any allegiance with the English), though it wasn't until
1532 that the Breton parliament agreed to unification. Relations between
Brittany and the Paris administration have often been stormy since then,
and the Bretons have always been quick to voice their disapproval of any
government plans that threaten the interests of the region.
Breton culture
Brittany's strong culture and rich folklore are fascinating. Many of
the myths and legends are shared with Celtic Britain, such as the stories
of Merlin, King Arthur and the Holy Grail. Bretons have traditionally
been deeply religious, and pardons are still celebrated. Pardons are religious
ceremonies during which relics or a statue of the local saint - Brittany
has many - are carried through the streets and people ask forgiveness
for their sins. They are one of the few occasions nowadays for which Bretons
wear traditional dress. There is no single traditional Breton costume,
as there are variations in colours and cuts between towns and provinces.
Generally speaking, men wear black trousers and jacket plus a wide-brimmed
black hat. Women wear dresses with tiered skirts. Some have elaborate
bodices, but all have aprons which are usually embroidered or decorated
with lace, the extravagance of the decoration reflecting the wealth of
the family. The traditional lace headwear worn by women is called a coiffe and again varies in size and complexity, from small pieces of lace worn
over a bun, to elaborate, towering creations with flowing ribbons. Unfortunately
use of the Breton language, similar to Gaelic, is dwindling, but Breton
folk music is flourishing - old songs have been revived and young bands
are producing modern interpretations of traditional music.
Regional cuisine
Brittany
is not a region traditionally associated with fine food. Surprisingly
for a people with such individualistic tendencies, it doesn't even have
its own distinctive style of cooking. The only true Breton specialities
are pancakes (crêpes, which usually have a sweet filling, and galettes,
which are thicker and tend to have a savoury filling) and cotriade, a
fish stew traditionally made from conger eel and the remains of the catch.
Generally, Breton cuisine is simple, with little use of sauces, and features
much fish and seafood. Try palourdes farcies (baked clams stuffed with
garlic, herbs and shallots) and pot au feu d'homard (lobster stew with
shrimps, scallops, mussels and oysters). Brittany's young lambs, raised
on the salt meadows, are also very good, and a wide variety of vegetables
are produced locally. The region's few cheeses are all made from cow's
milk and tend to be relatively mild. Mingaux is a soft cream cheese, often
served with fruit or simply sprinkled with sugar. Strictly speaking, now
that the vineyards around Nantes fall under the administration of the
Loire, Brittany does not produce any wines, but Muscadet is still considered
to be a Breton wine. Crisp and dry, it is excellent with seafood. Cider
is the main drink associated with Brittany.
We offer a gentle walking holiday along Brittany's rocky northern coast,
the Granite Coast of Brittany
Walk (grade 1).
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