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Brittany

<empty>Surrounded by the Atlantic on three sides, France's north-western peninsular, Brittany, is a region of wild, rugged landscapes. During centuries of relative isolation, a strong regional identity formed, which survives to this day.

Celtic roots

Brittany has strong Celtic roots. Celts from central Europe first settled there in the 6th century BC, naming it Armor, 'land of the sea'. In the 5th and 6th centuries, a second influx of Celts - the Dumnonii tribe from Devon and the Cornovii from Cornwall - settled in Armor, fleeing the invading Angles and Saxons. They renamed the region Small Britain, after their homeland, Great Britain. Their impact was great - they brought with them the Celtic language (that spoken in Armor had been heavily influenced by Latin under the Romans) and Christianity. In the 9th century Brittany became an independent French duchy and later a kingdom, sparking a series of often bloody power struggles. During the 15th century, ties between France and Brittany became stronger (France was keen to incorporate Brittany so as to block any allegiance with the English), though it wasn't until 1532 that the Breton parliament agreed to unification. Relations between Brittany and the Paris administration have often been stormy since then, and the Bretons have always been quick to voice their disapproval of any government plans that threaten the interests of the region.

Breton culture

Brittany's strong culture and rich folklore are fascinating. Many of the myths and legends are shared with Celtic Britain, such as the stories of Merlin, King Arthur and the Holy Grail. Bretons have traditionally been deeply religious, and pardons are still celebrated. Pardons are religious ceremonies during which relics or a statue of the local saint - Brittany has many - are carried through the streets and people ask forgiveness for their sins. They are one of the few occasions nowadays for which Bretons wear traditional dress. There is no single traditional Breton costume, as there are variations in colours and cuts between towns and provinces. Generally speaking, men wear black trousers and jacket plus a wide-brimmed black hat. Women wear dresses with tiered skirts. Some have elaborate bodices, but all have aprons which are usually embroidered or decorated with lace, the extravagance of the decoration reflecting the wealth of the family. The traditional lace headwear worn by women is called a coiffe and again varies in size and complexity, from small pieces of lace worn over a bun, to elaborate, towering creations with flowing ribbons. Unfortunately use of the Breton language, similar to Gaelic, is dwindling, but Breton folk music is flourishing - old songs have been revived and young bands are producing modern interpretations of traditional music.

Regional cuisine

Brittany is not a region traditionally associated with fine food. Surprisingly for a people with such individualistic tendencies, it doesn't even have its own distinctive style of cooking. The only true Breton specialities are pancakes (crêpes, which usually have a sweet filling, and galettes, which are thicker and tend to have a savoury filling) and cotriade, a fish stew traditionally made from conger eel and the remains of the catch. Generally, Breton cuisine is simple, with little use of sauces, and features much fish and seafood. Try palourdes farcies (baked clams stuffed with garlic, herbs and shallots) and pot au feu d'homard (lobster stew with shrimps, scallops, mussels and oysters). Brittany's young lambs, raised on the salt meadows, are also very good, and a wide variety of vegetables are produced locally. The region's few cheeses are all made from cow's milk and tend to be relatively mild. Mingaux is a soft cream cheese, often served with fruit or simply sprinkled with sugar. Strictly speaking, now that the vineyards around Nantes fall under the administration of the Loire, Brittany does not produce any wines, but Muscadet is still considered to be a Breton wine. Crisp and dry, it is excellent with seafood. Cider is the main drink associated with Brittany.

We offer a gentle walking holiday along Brittany's rocky northern coast, the Granite Coast of Brittany Walk (grade 1).