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Nostalgic for Norway
By Sarah Ridley
Majestic
fjords, dramatic waterfalls, rugged mountains, wild islands, sweeping
bays of fine sand, characterful cities
Norway is astonishingly varied.
I've travelled to various parts of the country in recent years and still
find myself taken aback each time by the sheer vastness and striking beauty
of the landscapes. This is scenery that you can never tire of, no matter
how many times you have seen it, because the different seasons and different
light mean it is constantly changing. And there is something very humbling
about standing on the shores of a fjord and looking up to the peaks above,
or gazing at seemingly never-ending mountains from an elevated viewpoint.
I'm a keen walker and love Norway for its excellent walking. I would
even go as far as saying that some of the best walking I've ever done
has been in Norway. Favourite routes include the walk through the magical
Aurland Valley, which is dotted with waterfalls and a haven for a variety
of wildlife, on the From
the Fjells to the Fjords holiday, and the walk above dramatic fjords
to the panoramic summit of Munkebu on the Journey
to Å holiday - I'll never forget the view from the peak of brooding
mountains on one side and glassy lakes on the other.
A
holiday to Norway needn't involve any walking, however - go fishing, take
to the water in a rowing boat, or enjoy a cruise along a fjord instead.
That said, there is always the option of an occasional day of walking
as part of a touring holiday as we choose hotels from which there are
some good local paths. For touring, we highly recommend using public transport, which allows you
simply to sit back and enjoy the views from the seat of a train or the
deck of a boat. In fact, the transport system is so reliable (and clean
and comfortable) that there is no stress in travelling this way, an alien
concept to us Brits! The fact that you may have (perfectly feasible) connection
times of a minute or two between the arrival of a bus and the departure
of a boat illustrates just how seamlessly integrated the different transport
systems are. If on a rare occasion your bus or train is late, they wait
for you. And you needn't worry about restricting your options too much
by choosing the public transport system either - you can still experience
some of the most magnificent scenery. Travelling by a combination of boat and rail as part of our Norwegian Highlights holiday, for example, you can journey on the Hurtigruten Journey
from the Lofoten Islands to Bergen, travel along majestic Sognefjord by express boat, and cross the central
highlands to finish in flourishing Oslo.
As
I've said, Norway's landscapes cannot fail to impress even the most experienced
traveller. For me, highlights - something hard to define in a country
where there are impressive views at every turn - include a stay on the
tiny Lofoten Island of Skrova,
an enchanting island that you can walk around in a day and that is so
untouched by tourism that you can gain a real insight into island life
as it has been for decades; the Midnight Sun, which bathes Arctic Norway
in perpetual light from the beginning of June to mid-July; a picnic by
the third waterfall above Kinsarvik on Hardangerfjord
(here the valley opens out onto a grassy area which is so peaceful it
seems like another world); a stay at the Hotel Mundal at the end of the
most idyllic spur of the Sognefjord
(this is my favourite Norwegian hotel as it is still run by the family
that built it, and it feels like a place that time forgot); the view from
Mount Aksla of Ålesund,
Norway's Art Nouveau town par excellence, and the outlying islands; the
special atmosphere at the Hotel Finse, a simple but convivial hotel which
draws people from all over Norway who want to enjoy the outdoor life on
the Hardangervidda;
and the Flåm
Valley, though you should try to walk down it rather than take the
famous railway as you have more time to marvel at the ravines and roaring
waterfalls. Then there are the cities: friendly Bergen,
whose painted wooden houses that line the harbour (the Bryggen) have been
declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and culturally rich Oslo,
an unlikely art city which nevertheless boasts several excellent galleries
and sculpture parks as well as a museum dedicated to Edvard Munch. Combine
just a couple of these and you have the ingredients for a holiday that
you'll remember for years to come and that will make you long to go back
for more.
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