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Medieval Villages of the South-West

After passing through the vineyards west of Albi to the bustling wine-making centre of Gaillac, this splendid route takes you north through rolling countryside reminiscent of Tuscany, visiting wonderfully preserved bastide villages, the most famous of which is hill-top Cordes-sur-Ciel. These fortified settlements, with grid-pattern arcaded streets and handsome squares, are now beautiful reminders of the great conflicts of the Middle Ages. This is a truly southern region, with a long, hot summer and warm spring and autumn; cycling here along quiet lanes immerses you in one of France’s most alluring corners.

Nights: 7
Grade: 2
Terrain: riverside lanes, country roads across rolling wooded hills
Hotels: one 2-star hotel; two 3-star chambres d'hôtes (guesthouses); one 3-star hotel
Meals: breakfast each day, dinner on 3 nights
Climate: this region enjoys a long, hot summer, when daytime temperatures typically reach 27°C, and a warm spring and autumn.

Immaculate vineyards
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Splendid gardens in Albi
Albi's imposing brick cathedral
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Visit fortified villages

Starting point: Hotel Chiffre (3*), Albi. This family-run hotel is centrally located, just five minutes' walk from the main sights. Enjoy well-crafted cuisine in the smart restaurant.

Day 1: we suggest that you start the day by visiting Albi's imposing cathedral (the largest brick building in the world) and fascinating museum dedicated to the city's most famous son, Toulouse-Lautrec (pay locally). You then head west from Albi along the Tarn Valley, passing through the village of Castelnau-de-Lévis, where the climb to the ruined château is rewarded by sweeping views over Albi (to best appreciate the views we recommend you climb the 200 steps of the castle tower). The next village is also worthy of exploration: it has an interesting church and dovecote, as well as a large wine cooperative. The last section takes you through vineyards to Gaillac, one of the most important wine-making towns in the South-West. (31km)

Accommodation: Lucille Pinon (3* chambres d'hôtes), Gaillac. Located in the heart of the old town, opposite the abbey, this is an intimate, highly praised guesthouse with just six simply furnished but comfortable bedrooms. The building dates from the 17th century, and various original features have been retained. Breakfast only is served here, so you can take your pick of the town's restaurants for dinner.

Day 2: you could easily spend your day in Gaillac visiting the old town, its abbey, art gallery and maison des vins where you can taste and buy wines from the region. If you prefer to cycle, flat lanes south of the River Tarn lead to Lisle-sur-Tarn, passing a great viewpoint of the valley as you approach. Boasting an arcaded central square and a Gothic church with an octagonal tower, fortified Lisle-sur-Tarn is one of the region's finest bastide villages, and the only one along the Tarn with a port. Your return to Gaillac is through pleasant orchards and vineyards. (23km)

Accommodation: Lucille Pinon, as above.

Day 3: today's route leads uphill as you head northwards through the Gaillac vineyards and rolling countryside. You are rewarded with good views of the fortified hill-top village of Castelnau-de-Montmiral as you cycle along the ridge before winding downhill to your hotel. You will probably have time on arrival to visit Castelnau-de-Montmiral and appreciate its handsome arcades, old stone houses and views over the vineyards. (30km)

Accommodation: La Croix du Sud (3* chambres d'hôtes), Castelnau-de-Montmiral, where you will be greeted by your amiable host, Catherine Sordoillet. Set at the foot of the hill on which Castelnau stands, this is a charming and very attractive chambres d’hôtes converted from an old stone house with an outdoor pool. You stay on a bed and breakfast basis but we book dinner in a local restaurant (pay locally) - we include taxis to and from the hotel.

Day 4: we suggest three cycle rides for your day at the Croix du Sud, all of which cross hilly terrain that rewards you with good views from the ridges. The first two routes routes explore the Sivens and Gresigne forests, while the third route heads further afield to Puycelci, once a stronghold of the Cathars, a heresy that was ruthlessly suppressed by Simon de Montfort in the 13th century. (16km, 25km or 30km)

Accommodation: La Croix du Sud, as above.

Day 5: from Castelnau-de-Montmiral, you cycle eastwards to Cahuzac-sur-Vère, another handsome fortified village. Take time to visit before turning northwards into the vine-clad hills, passing the château of Cayla, which is now a museum dedicated to the Romantic poet Maurice de Guérin, who lived here in the 19th century. On arrival in Cordes, head into the centre to explore the most famous bastide village. The cobbled streets are lined with craft shops. (26km)

Accommodation: Hostellerie du Parc (2*), Cordes. Set on the edge of Cordes, with simple rooms, the emphasis here is on the gourmet restaurant.

Day 6: leaving Cordes, you pass a couple of good viewpoints before starting a 1.5-km climb, which is well worth it for the views into the valleys on either side of the ridge at the top. Your route passes through several small villages before leading downhill back to Albi, your starting point. Be sure to stroll onto one of the bridges over the River Tarn at sunset to see the red-brick buildings glow pink, giving the city its name, La Ville Rose. (30km)

Accommodation: Hotel Chiffre, as above.

Recommendations for extra nights: Albi and Gaillac.

Other information: if you would like to see the brochure page, you can download this (and the pages for any other holidays you are interested in) by using our brochure creation system.

Take the Train and break your journey for a night in Paris on the way, staying at one of our favourite Parisian hotels. Read one traveller's experiences in her personal travel diary.

Similar holidays: Dordogne Valley (grade 2), Vézère & Dordogne Valleys (grade 2), Classic Provence (grade 2), Timeless Tarn (grade 1-2), Siena & Southern Tuscany (grade 2), San Gimignano & the Sienese Plains (grade 1-2)

Prices & travel 2008:

£ per person based
on 2 in a double rm
Cycle
price*
By
rail
Self-
drive
Single
room
7 nights: 1 April-31 October 2008
1 Apr-23 May 564 730 619 151
24 May-16 Jun 583 749 639 158
17 Jun-30 Sep 599 764 650 158
1-31 Oct 564 730 619 151
3rd+ person saving 50 50 120  

Recommended destination airports: Rodez & Toulouse
Latest flight arrival time:
Rodez 1630; Toulouse 1600
Earliest flight departure time: Rodez 1300; Toulouse 1200
*Connecting travel: return rail/taxi from Toulouse (out/home 1h40) £21pp;
return rail/taxi from Rodez (out/home 2h20) £43pp
Book your flights through us and we'll find the best route, times and price to suit you
By rail includes: Eurostar/TGV/regional rail via Paris & Toulouse (out dep St Pancras 0925, 0655 on Saturdays/home dep Albi 0750). Please note that a supplement may be payable depending on availability of seats for your chosen dates of travel and how far in advance of your departure date your holiday booking is made
Self-drive includes: P&O Ferries Dover-Calais (and parking fee - if you are making your own ferry arrangements, a €80 parking fee is payable locally at Albi)

Extra night prices 2008 (extra nights can be booked at any hotel):

Extra night (per person per night) Double
room
Single
room
Cordes (with dinner) 1 Apr-31 May; 1-31 Oct 58 74
  1 Jun-30 Sep 66 83
Gaillac (B&B) 1 Apr-31 Oct 34 50
Albi (with dinner) 1 Apr-31 Oct 73 94

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