A boat trip along the canals can provide an interesting introduction to the city, but the best way to explore the narrow streets and appreciate fully the architectural richness of the step-gabled buildings is on foot. The 600-year-old City Hall, the Renaissance Old Recorders' House, and the 17th-century Provost's House are among the most splendid. For a panoramic view of the city, climb the 366 steps up to the belfry of the Church of Our Lady.

Elsewhere, an excellent variety of enticing shops – including numerous specialist boutiques selling lace and delicious handmade chocolates – vie for attention with churches, galleries and museums, the subjects of which include Flemish art, lace, folklore and Belgian beer. (Most museums close on either Monday or Tuesday.) Or while away an hour or so browsing the stalls of the twice-weekly market, held on Saturdays and Wednesdays.